Welcome to the ‘Build-A-Bear’ of clothing. Read all this please.
Base Model Prices, including return postage within the USA-
- Wool Blanket Shirt: Bell shaped tunic with 2 antler buttons on a simple collar. Rolled hem and cuffs. No frills $190 for solid color blankets/$230 for striped blankets.
- Scout Shirt: Straight cut torso with a zippered fleece lined collar. Reinforced elbow patches. Front pocket with inner security pouch. Plain rolled cuffs and hem for the base model. $280 for solid colored blankets/$310 for stripes.
- Boreal Shirt: Bell cut torso with a grommeted neck gusset and hood. Plain hem and cuffs for base model. Front pocket with inner security pouch. $330 for solid colors/$345 for stripes. Add $15 for zippered front Superhoody hood with fleece lining around the face.
- Add knit black nylon cuff $15.
- Install stainless snaps at the wrist $25
- Supplex Elbow Panels (not for Wool Blanket shirt) $45.
- 8″ split in the sides (plain hem only) $30
- Supplex draw cord tunnel with side seam cord locks $30
- Internal waist draw cord. (not for Wool Blanket Shirt. Nope. Ick) $30
The quality of your blanket determines the look and feel of the finished product. This is your investment. Here are a few guidelines:
- Size matters. Generally a twin sized 66″x90″ solid color blanket will yield a Large+ shirt. (large means you at 6′ and 200 pounds) For a Large from a striped blanket, you’ll need a 72″+ width to be sure the torso, pockets, and sleeves match. A 6 Point/Queen pretty much covers everyone else. You’ll get the scraps, unless you want to donate them.
- Hygiene matters. Please be sure your blanket is clean and free from odor, pet hair, grit, etc. This is non-negotiable.
- Loft and density matter. Here’s a sticky subject. I’ve converted just about every type of bedding. Old, new, premium, and surplus blankets all have their finer points. If you can see through the weave and pinch it down to nothing, keep it on the bed. Avoid wool-blend bargains, luxury animals (Alpaca, Vicuna, Mohair, etc), and Amazon.com offerings. Pendleton, HBC, and Trapper Point blankets are great. Some Euro surplus models are brutally tough. Even those thick, old nubbly Pepto Pink and Baby Blue department store blankets from the 60’s and 70’s have more fiber per inch than snooty boutique Merino. Trust your fingertips.
- Keep it simple. NO PLAID, ornate patterns, or pictures. My layout runs along the length of the blanket, with torso, sleeves, and pocket pointing vertically towards the center.
- Wool Blankets only please. I’ve built these for 15 years. My patterns are perfect for the loft, weight, and drape of your sheepish bedding. Regular wool fabrics can be too stiff, too loose, too thin, and/or shrink like mad. They usually come off the roll 45″ to 60″ wide, which makes patterning a chore. No synthetics either. Just no.
That’s relative. By saying that I get permission to build it bigger than you. I need these:
- Your height and weight. While these are highly subjective, they help me.
- Your shoulder width across the top. (See diagram above)
- Your arm length. With you arm down, measure from the top of your shoulder to your wrist. The sleeve will reach well on to your hands. Roll the cuffs up when you’re busy. Make use of the length the rest of the time.
- Your Neck, Chest, and Belly size. Be honest. I’m going to add +8″ or so of girth to allow for layers and movement.